How to visit the Leather Tanneries in Fez, Morocco
Fez tanneries, for the most part, operate exactly as they did 800 years ago . Using pigeon poop and pomegranates to help soften cow, sheep, goat and camel hides. For centuries, the workers pass their days coloring the skins.
Gigantic ancient vants are filled with traditional,ages-old alchemy.
How to visit leather tanneries in Fez, Morocco
They say that the best way to find a leather tannery is to use your nose. It is very accurate as the smell of the ancient alchemy mix can be distinguished from miles and miles away.
You are not likely to get close to the vats, but the terrace-rooftop business has been flourishing. So, as a tourist, you will observe the vast spread of ancient tanneries, the work process, and the scent even more of the “tradition.”The locals use bunches of mint that they will be happy to offer you to beat the smell.
So, where does the smell of Fez tanneries come from?
Before the coloring process occurs,the skins are soaked in a “secret mix” different for every tannery.For example, there is a formula that consists of pigeon excrement, limestone, and water mix. Proportions are kept in secret. There the skins stay for a couple of days.
Look around the medina and you will see flocks of pigeons. Their feces are delivered fresh every day.
The reason for such a radical ingredient is ammoniac that the feces are so rich with.It softens the leather.
All animal skins are soaked in natural pigments.
Salt and limestone remove the fat and hair from the skin.
Red from poppies
Green from mind
Orange from Henna
Cedar from wood
Yellow from saffron
Very similar to Peruvian natural alpaca wool dye!
Every shopkeeper from every tannery will tell you that the view here is the best
The Chouara Tannery – you can visit its many tanneries free of charge. Still, you will be pushed to buy souvenirs as all roads to the viewing spots lead through the souvenir shops.
The Chouara Tannery is the most well-known, the largest in Fez and quite likely the world’s oldest tannery.
All the skins eventually turn into bachelors – the signature pointy shoes, bags and other accessories.
In concrete pools or pits of dye, boys and young men were soaking the skins below us. It had got to be over a hundred workers around the holes of dye . In workshops above the pits, craftsmen were working the skins.
Pro tip:
Do not pay to visit the terraces of Fez tanneries. It is officially free in the city of Fez. Also, avoid the “tour guys” who promise to take you on a private VIP,very VIP tour.
You could tip the owner a few dihrahms if you enjoyed your visit to avoid buying unnecessary souvenir goodies. Which you indeed can find cheaper on the market nearby.